Have you ever hiked a trail that left you so traumatized
that you never wanted to return again?
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| Boggy bottom trail |
In early May of 1973, barely five months after I moved from
the gentle shores of the Chesapeake Bay to the wild mountain rainforest of Juneau,
I hiked the Lemon Creek trail to try out my brand new frame pack (Kelty BB5). I had very little outdoor
experience, although I’d been working overtime trying to learn as many new
activities as I could fit in. Since that day in late December 1972 when I first
arrived in Alaska, I had learned to ice climb, cross country ski, snowshoe and
how to properly travel and camp in the snow. But I was not prepared for the
horrors of getting lost in a dark, endless mud bog surrounded by old growth
deadfall and impenetrable devil’s club. It didn’t help that my partner and I planned
our hike on a day that was pouring rain, which added to the misery of the wet,
muddy trail – that is, when we could stay on the poorly marked route. As I
mentioned before, the purpose of the trip was try out my new pack, so to add
insult to injury I hiked with at least a 30 pound load. Soon after that trip, I
discovered the myriad of other trails in the area, and the awful memory of that
dark, wet day kept me from ever returning.
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| Beware the Devil's Club bushes! |
But I’m retired now, which, by the way, is one reason I
haven’t written a blog since last fall. It’s been a crazy, busy winter, what
with my husband and I selling our business of forty years, becoming
grandparents, teaching cross country skiing full-time and various other lame
excuses. I’ve continued to hike and ski, but just haven’t bothered to take the
time to write about it. For those of you who enjoy my outdoor blogs, I offer a
sincere apology and hope to start writing regularly again.
Anyway, as a retiree, I now have the luxury of going back to
a trail that I swore I would never hike again and not worry about “wasting” a
day off. On Sunday, while the weather remained warm and dry, Scott and I
decided to venture on the Lemon Creek trail and see what’s changed since 1973.
Scott had never hiked it, probably due to my extreme reluctance to go back
there, so he was interested to see if it was as bad as he’d heard. I was
hopeful to find some improvements both in the trail and my attitude. We
considered it to be a scouting expedition with no clear goal other than hiking
for an undetermined time and distance on a nice day.
We parked behind Home Depot and started up the gravel road
at the trailhead. A decent mountain biker could negotiate the first quarter to
half mile, and an expert biker could have fun for about the next mile, but as
soon as it descends into the boggy forest it probably wouldn’t be worth the
ride. We were able to stay on our bikes for only the first quarter mile and
then left them behind (lesson #1 – don’t bother with the bikes). The trail was
fairly well marked and easy to follow, even when we dropped down into the swampy
lowlands. There we ran into one other hiker, and we ended up traveling together
the rest of the day.
To our pleasant surprise, the trail was not too bad. Forest
deadfalls covered the trail in places, but we were always able to find ways
around them. Where the trail wandered too close to the creek, the steep bank
sometimes fell away, taking large sections of the trail with it, but every time
we found an alternate way to get back on track. Each time we lost the trail, we
thanked the randomly placed orange flagging that helped us locate it again
(lesson #2 – bring a little flagging tape of our own). The trail follows the
creek as it twists and folds back along the valley, quickly moving into a
remote area that feels far removed from the road system just a few miles
behind. We found signs of porcupine, deer, wolf, and mountain goat the further
back we went.
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| The case of the disappearing trail |
Several interesting creek crossings feature logs with wire
mesh tacked on them to help with footing. Occasional hand lines of questionable
strength also aid in negotiating the log bridges, although good balance and a
little luck are still required in spots. I patted myself on the back for
keeping my feet dry most of the way, until I gently tumbled off a slippery log
and into the boiling waters of Canyon Creek. Thanks to the safety rope which
miraculously did not break, my only injuries were wet feet and a few scrapes,
and I hastened to reassure our new friend that this was a common occurrence for
me and nothing to be too concerned about. Scott just rolled his eyes and sighed
(lesson #3 – bring new rope to replace some of the worn lines on the log
crossings and let Scott go first).
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| One of the easier creek crossings |
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| Whoops! Don't want to fall in this creek (but I did) |
We stopped for a snack in a small open meadow on a little
hill about a quarter of a mile from the end of the valley trail. We were only
five miles away from the road, but it felt like we
were twenty miles in.
Beautiful waterfalls fell from high cliffs above us, and dark green ridges topped
with snow and rock walls surrounded us.
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| Drying out my shoes and socks with a million dollar view (photo credit - Jarvis Schultz) |
Just before the end of the trail we spotted the spur trail
leading to the Juneau Icefield Research Camp 17A near the Ptarmigan Glacier. We
explored the route up a steep hillside (think Blackerby Ridge trail with less
traffic and fewer switchbacks) for about a quarter of a mile until we felt that
we had a good idea of where it went. Scott and I decided we would most
certainly return soon and hike a loop from Lemon Creek around to Cairn Peak and
out the Blackerby Ridge route.
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| Dropping back down the spur trail that leads to the Juneau Icefield camps |
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| (photo credit - Jarvis Schultz) |
We dropped back down to the main trail and located the water
gauging station a short distance up the creek and where the Lemon Creek trail
seems to officially end. According to an older trail book, “in late July and early
August a natural garden exhibits a riot of color on the far side of a stream”
just past the gauging station, providing us with yet another reason to return
to this trail.
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| Lemon Creek gauging station |
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| Lemon Creek |
The hike back seemed shorter and quicker now that we were
more familiar with the terrain, and all my old prejudices about the evils of
the Lemon Creek trail were erased. We stopped in several places to explore more
of the animal signs we’d noticed on the way in, identified Varied Thrushes calling
to each other in the trees and an American Dipper feeding in a side stream. We
lingered along a section of the main creek with a wide rocky shore bank that we
thought would make a quiet summer camping site.
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| Porcupine quills in some poor animal's fur (photo credit - Jarvis Schultz) |
I’m pretty sure this is the only Juneau trail I’ve actively
avoided for over forty years. I’ll search my memory to make sure I hold no
prejudices against any other trails, because I was certainly proved wrong in
this case (lesson #4 – don’t let one bad experience sour your attitude). Our
little exploratory trip up the Lemon Creek trail was a huge success and gave
much more than we’d hoped for in the way of outdoor recreational fun. Nice to
know I can still be pleased and surprised by a local trail, and I’ll be sure to
return soon.
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| Old bad memories are now replaced with good new memories |
